Open water swimming requires surprisingly little gear. A swimsuit, goggles, and a cap are enough to get in the water. But the right equipment makes every swim safer, more comfortable, and more enjoyable, while the wrong gear creates problems that no amount of fitness can overcome.
This guide covers every piece of equipment an open water swimmer might need, from absolute essentials to useful extras, with specific recommendations on what to look for and what to avoid.
Essential Gear: The Non-Negotiables
These items should be in your bag for every open water swim, regardless of location, temperature, or distance.
Goggles
Your goggles are the single most important piece of open water swim gear. Pool goggles can work in a pinch, but open water demands different lens options for different conditions.
Lens types and when to use them:
- Clear lenses. Best for overcast days, early morning or evening swims, and murky water where maximum light transmission helps you see. Use these as your default for indoor pool training as well.
- Tinted lenses (amber, blue, or smoke). Good all-rounders that reduce glare on partly cloudy days without being too dark. Amber tints enhance contrast, which helps with sighting in flat light.
- Mirrored lenses. Essential for bright, sunny conditions, especially when sighting toward the sun. They reflect light away from your eyes and significantly reduce squinting. These are the most popular choice for ocean swimming.
- Polarized lenses. The premium option. Polarization cuts reflected glare off the water surface, making it easier to see through the water and spot landmarks. Excellent for lake swimming and calm ocean conditions. More expensive than standard mirrored lenses, but worth it if you swim frequently in bright conditions.
Fit matters more than brand. Goggles should seal around your eye socket without pressing on your eyeball. Press them against your face without the strap. They should suction and stay for 2 to 3 seconds. If they fall off immediately, the shape is wrong for your face. Try several brands and models. What works for someone else may not work for you.
Anti-fog. All goggles fog eventually. New goggles have a factory anti-fog coating that lasts a few months with careful handling. Do not touch the inside of the lenses. Do not wipe them with a towel. Rinse with fresh water after each swim. When the factory coating wears off, use anti-fog drops or a tiny smear of baby shampoo on the inside of the lens before each swim.
Recommendation. Own at least two pairs: one clear or tinted pair and one mirrored or polarized pair. Having the right lens for the conditions makes a meaningful difference to comfort and navigation.
Swim Cap
A swim cap serves three purposes in open water: it reduces drag, keeps hair out of your face, and most importantly, makes you visible to boats, jet skis, and other water users.
Silicone vs latex. Silicone caps are thicker, more durable, more comfortable, and easier to put on. Latex caps are thinner, cheaper, and grip the head more tightly. For open water, silicone is the better choice for most swimmers. Latex tears too easily and offers no thermal benefit.
Colour. Wear the brightest cap you own. Neon orange, neon pink, neon yellow, or neon green. A bright cap is one of the most effective and cheapest safety measures available. Dark or black caps make you nearly invisible from a distance. Save those for the pool.
Neoprene caps. In water below 14 degrees Celsius, a neoprene cap provides meaningful thermal protection. You lose a significant amount of heat through your head, and a 2 to 3mm neoprene cap can extend your comfortable swim time by 15 to 20 minutes in cold conditions. They are bulkier than silicone caps and take some getting used to, but the warmth is worth it. Many cold water swimmers wear a silicone cap over the top of a neoprene cap for extra insulation and to keep the neoprene in place.
Tow Float and Swim Buoy
A tow float is an inflatable buoy that attaches to your waist via a short leash and trails behind you as you swim. It is the most important safety item you can carry, and it should be considered as essential as goggles.
Why it matters. A tow float makes you visible from hundreds of metres away. In an emergency, you can hug it for buoyancy while you rest or signal for help. It does not impede your stroke or slow you down in any meaningful way once you are used to it.
Standard vs dry bag. Standard tow floats are simple inflatable bladders. Dry bag tow floats have a waterproof compartment where you can store your phone, keys, wallet, and a drink. The dry bag versions are slightly larger and heavier, but the convenience of carrying your valuables with you rather than leaving them on the shore is significant. For most swimmers, a dry bag tow float is the better investment.
What to look for. Bright colours (orange or yellow), a comfortable waist belt that does not chafe, a leash long enough that the float does not hit your feet when you kick, and a reliable inflation valve. Expect to pay between 20 and 40 pounds or dollars for a good one.
Sunscreen
Water reflects UV radiation, and you are exposed from above and below simultaneously. A 45-minute swim without sunscreen on a sunny day can produce a severe burn on your shoulders, neck, back, and face.
What to use. Water-resistant SPF 50+ broad-spectrum sunscreen, applied 20 to 30 minutes before entering the water. Reapply after every swim longer than 40 minutes if you exit and re-enter.
Reef-safe considerations. If you swim in the ocean, particularly near coral reefs or marine protected areas, choose a mineral sunscreen (zinc oxide or titanium dioxide) rather than a chemical sunscreen. Chemical sunscreens containing oxybenzone and octinoxate are harmful to coral and marine life. Many coastal regions now require reef-safe formulations by law. Check local regulations.
Cold Water Gear
Water below 18 degrees Celsius is noticeably cold. Below 14 degrees it becomes a serious factor in how long and how far you can swim. The right thermal gear extends your season and your safety margin. Our cold water swimming guide covers acclimatization and safety in detail. This section focuses on the gear.
Wetsuits
A wetsuit traps a thin layer of water between the neoprene and your skin. Your body heats that water, creating an insulating layer. Thicker neoprene means more insulation but less flexibility.
Thickness guide by water temperature:
- 20 degrees Celsius and above. No wetsuit needed for most swimmers. A swimsuit is fine. Some swimmers prefer a thin 1 to 2mm shorty for extra buoyancy.
- 16 to 20 degrees. A 2 to 3mm wetsuit provides comfort without overheating. Many swimmers can manage without a wetsuit in this range, but sessions beyond 30 minutes become significantly more comfortable with one.
- 12 to 16 degrees. A 3/2mm wetsuit (3mm torso, 2mm arms and legs) is the standard choice. This is the most versatile thickness for UK, Northern European, and cooler US coastal waters during spring and autumn.
- 8 to 12 degrees. A 4/3mm wetsuit is appropriate. Pair with neoprene gloves and booties. Sessions should be kept shorter. Many experienced cold water swimmers use a 3/2mm in this range but limit their time carefully.
- Below 8 degrees. A 5/4mm or 6/5mm wetsuit, neoprene hood, gloves, and booties. This is serious cold water swimming. Only attempt it with proper acclimatization and experience. Time in the water should be strictly limited.
Triathlon cut vs surfing cut. Triathlon-specific wetsuits have thinner, more flexible neoprene in the shoulders and arms to allow a full swimming stroke. The torso is thicker for buoyancy and warmth. Surfing wetsuits prioritize different movements and are cut for paddling rather than overhead arm rotation. If you are swimming rather than surfing, a triathlon-cut wetsuit is noticeably better for stroke freedom. The price difference is modest and the performance difference is real.
Fit. A wetsuit must be tight. There should be no loose folds of neoprene, particularly around the neck, armpits, and lower back, because loose areas fill with water and defeat the purpose. But it should not restrict your breathing or compress your chest uncomfortably. Try several sizes and brands. Swim-specific brands like Zone3, Orca, blueseventy, and Huub tend to have the best fit for swimmers.
Neoprene Accessories
Neoprene gloves. 2 to 3mm neoprene gloves preserve hand dexterity in cold water. Your hands cool faster than any other body part because of their high surface-area-to-volume ratio. When your fingers go numb, your catch phase collapses and your stroke efficiency drops dramatically. Gloves are the single most impactful cold water accessory after a wetsuit.
Neoprene booties. 2 to 3mm booties protect your feet from cold and from sharp rocks, shells, and debris on the bottom. They are especially useful at entry and exit points with rocky or uneven surfaces. Look for booties with a thin sole that you can still feel the ground through.
Neoprene hood or cap. Covers your head, ears, and part of your neck. Provides more coverage than a neoprene swim cap and is preferable for water below 10 degrees. Some hoods extend down to the shoulders for maximum thermal protection.
Changing Robes and Dry Robes
A changing robe (sometimes called a dry robe or swim parka) is an oversized, insulated, waterproof coat that you put on immediately after exiting the water. It serves as both a changing room and a warming layer.
Good changing robes have a waterproof outer shell, a fleece or sherpa inner lining, a large hood, and deep pockets. They allow you to change out of your swimsuit with some privacy while trapping warmth against your body.
This is not a luxury item if you swim in cold water. After-drop, the continued cooling of your core temperature after you leave the water, is a genuine risk. A changing robe is the fastest way to start rewarming. Expect to pay 50 to 150 pounds or dollars depending on the brand and insulation quality. Dryrobe, Robie, and Red Original are well-regarded brands, but there are many competent budget alternatives.
Safety Gear
Open water swimming carries inherent risks that pool swimming does not. These items address the most common safety concerns.
Safety Whistle
A whistle attached to your goggles or tow float allows you to signal for help if you get into trouble. Your voice does not carry well across water, especially into wind. A whistle carries much further with much less effort. Choose a pealess whistle designed for marine use that works when wet. They cost almost nothing and weigh almost nothing. There is no reason not to carry one.
Waterproof Phone Pouch
A waterproof phone pouch in your tow float's dry bag gives you access to emergency calls, GPS, and SwimPass for real-time condition checks even while you are at the water's edge. Look for an IPX8-rated pouch from a reputable brand. Test it in the bath with a piece of tissue paper inside before trusting it with your phone.
LED Safety Light
If you swim at dawn, dusk, or in overcast conditions with reduced visibility, a small LED light clipped to your tow float or the back of your goggles strap makes you visible to boats and other water users. Choose a light with a flash mode. Flashing lights are far more noticeable than steady ones. Waterproof to at least IPX7.
GPS Watch
A GPS-capable sports watch is not strictly safety gear, but it serves safety purposes. It tracks your route so you can review your navigation afterward, monitors your heart rate, logs distance and pace, and some models include safety features like incident detection and emergency location sharing.
For open water swimming, look for a watch with open water swim mode (not just pool mode), wrist-based heart rate that works in cold water, a visible screen in bright sunlight, and reliable GPS tracking. Garmin, COROS, and Apple Watch all have strong open water swimming capabilities. Expect to pay 200 to 500 pounds or dollars depending on features.
Nice-to-Have Gear
These items are not essential but improve the training experience.
Swim Snorkel
A centre-mount swim snorkel allows you to breathe continuously while focusing on your catch, pull, and body rotation without turning your head. Excellent for technique work in the pool. Not used in open water. The Finis Swimmer's Snorkel is the standard choice.
Hand Paddles and Fins
Paddles increase the load on each stroke, building swim-specific strength and reinforcing a good catch. Fins add propulsion and help you work on body position and kick technique. Both are pool training tools. Use paddles sparingly to avoid shoulder strain: no more than 20 to 25 percent of your total pool volume. See our training plan for how to structure pool sessions.
Anti-Chafe Balm
Saltwater, wetsuit seams, and repetitive arm motion create chafing around the neck, armpits, and inner thighs. Apply a water-resistant anti-chafe balm (such as Body Glide or a lanolin-based product) to vulnerable areas before every open water swim. This is especially important for swims longer than 30 minutes and any wetsuit swim.
Ear Plugs
Repeated exposure to cold water and wind causes surfer's ear (exostosis), a bony growth in the ear canal that narrows the opening over time. Ear plugs designed for swimming block cold water entry while still allowing you to hear. If you swim in cold water more than once a week, ear plugs are a worthwhile investment in long-term ear health. Moulded silicone plugs from brands like SurfEars or Doc's Proplugs offer a good seal without falling out during swimming.
Gear by Swim Type
Different environments prioritise different equipment.
Ocean swimming. Mirrored or polarized goggles, bright swim cap, tow float, anti-chafe balm, reef-safe sunscreen. Wetsuit depending on temperature. Safety whistle and waterproof phone pouch. The ocean is the most gear-intensive environment because of sun exposure, salt, chafing, and boat traffic.
Lake swimming. Clear or tinted goggles (lakes often have less glare), bright swim cap, tow float. Wetsuit if water temperature requires it. Lakes can be colder than coastal waters at the same latitude, especially spring-fed or deep lakes. Check water temperature on SwimPass before you go.
River swimming. All the essentials plus booties (river bottoms are often rocky or silty with hidden debris). Tow float is critical for visibility because river swimmers are harder to spot from shore. Be aware of currents, especially after rain. Avoid rivers with strong flow unless you have significant experience.
Pool training. Goggles (clear), swim cap, swimsuit. Add paddles, fins, and a snorkel for technique sessions. Pull buoy for upper body isolation. The pool is where your gear needs are simplest.
Budget Guide
You do not need to buy everything at once. Build your kit in stages.
Starter Kit: 50 to 80 Pounds or Dollars
This is the minimum to start swimming in open water in warm conditions (18 degrees and above):
- Goggles (mirrored): 15 to 25
- Silicone swim cap (bright colour): 5 to 10
- Tow float with dry bag: 25 to 40
- Sunscreen (reef-safe SPF 50+): 10 to 15
Intermediate Kit: 200 to 350 Pounds or Dollars
For year-round swimming in moderate climates (12 to 20 degrees water temperature):
- Everything in the starter kit
- Second pair of goggles (clear or tinted): 15 to 25
- Wetsuit (3/2mm triathlon cut): 100 to 200
- Neoprene gloves: 15 to 25
- Changing robe: 50 to 100
- Anti-chafe balm: 8 to 12
- Safety whistle: 3 to 5
Full Setup: 500 to 900 Pounds or Dollars
For dedicated open water swimmers who train year-round including cold water:
- Everything in the intermediate kit
- Upgraded wetsuit (4/3mm or a second wetsuit for colder conditions): 150 to 300
- Neoprene booties: 15 to 25
- Neoprene cap or hood: 15 to 25
- GPS watch: 200 to 500
- LED safety light: 10 to 20
- Ear plugs: 15 to 30
- Waterproof phone pouch: 10 to 20
Care and Maintenance
Gear that is cared for lasts significantly longer. Gear that is neglected deteriorates quickly and lets you down when it matters.
Goggles. Rinse with fresh water after every swim. Store in a protective case. Never wipe the inside of the lenses. Replace when the seal hardens or the anti-fog coating is gone, typically every 6 to 12 months with regular use.
Wetsuits. Rinse thoroughly with cold fresh water after every use, inside and out. Salt water and chlorine degrade neoprene. Hang to dry in the shade, never in direct sunlight. UV light breaks down neoprene faster than anything else. Store on a wide hanger or folded loosely. Never fold tightly or leave crumpled in a bag. Use wetsuit-specific shampoo monthly during heavy use periods. Repair small tears immediately with neoprene glue before they spread.
Neoprene accessories. Same care as wetsuits. Rinse, shade-dry, store loosely. Gloves and booties are especially prone to developing odours if stored damp. Dry them thoroughly between uses.
Tow float. Rinse with fresh water, deflate fully, and dry before storing. Check the inflation valve and waist belt for wear. Replace if the material shows signs of cracking, delamination, or significant fading, which indicates UV damage.
Changing robe. Machine wash on a gentle cycle every few weeks during regular use. Hang dry. Re-proof the waterproof outer shell annually with a spray-on waterproofing product if it starts to wet out.
The right gear removes barriers between you and the water. Start with the essentials, add items as your swimming progresses, and take care of what you have. A well-maintained starter kit will serve you better than a neglected premium setup.
Check SwimPass for conditions before your next swim, read our open water swimming safety guide for comprehensive safety advice, and see our 8-week training plan for a structured programme to build your open water fitness. If you are heading out for the first time, our first open water swim guide covers everything you need to know.